The
Ko Rattanakosin area is the oldest part
of Bangkok. Located by the river, this is where
most of Bangkok's main historical attractions are,
for example Wat Phra Kaew and Wat Pho. These impressive
sights aren't the only things to do in Ko Rattanakosin
however, and many of the other sights are within
easy walking distance.
'Ko' is the Thai word for 'island', but this
is no longer really an accurate term for this
area. It was so named due to Bangkok's extensive
canals in the late 18th century which surrounded
the area but nowadays most are filled in and you'd
be hard pressed to realize what there used to
be while walking or driving around it.
Just to the north of Wat Phra Kaew is the large
park known as Sanam Luang. For
most of the year it's nothing special and barely
worth a visit, though the spires of Wat
Phra Kaew certainly provide it with an
impressive backdrop. It's a somewhat more colorful
place during February to April when it's a popular
place for kite flying.
At the southeastern corner of Sanam Luang, and
close to the northeastern point of the Wat
Phra Kaew compound, is Saan Lak Meuang,
the 'city shrine'. This is the official center
point of Bangkok, and the point from which distances
to and from Bangkok are measured. Thai tradition
dictates that every city has a foundation stone,
in which lives the city's guardian spirit, responsible
for the power and well-being of the city. Although
not especially interesting in itself, it is believed
to grant peoples wishes and so receives large
numbers of worshippers. There's always floral
tributes piled up, and the smell of the burning
incense fills the air inside. This is especially
so in the couple of days leading up to the lottery
draw.
Across Sanam Luang and a short way up Na Phra
That road is Wat Mahathat, one
of Bangkok's most important wats though it's not
particularly inspiring to look at. It is famous
as a meditation center, as the headquarters for
the country's largest Buddhist sect, as a Buddhist
university and for it's royal associations (King
Mongkut, Rama IV, was a monk here). If you have
an interest in Buddhism, weekly English seminars
are given here and it's also possible to study
here. In the grounds of Wat Mahathat, and more
interesting for the average visitor, is the the
large amulet market. Best visited on weekends
and the occasional Buddhist holy day, when it
extends to nearby Phra Chan road. Found here is
a fascinating range of food, clothes, amulets,
talisman, herbal remedies, Buddha images, and
alms bowls and orange robes used by monks. There
is also another, much smaller, amulet market near
Tha Chang pier.
A little further north on Na Phra That road is
the National Museum. Nearby is
the National Theater, where genuinely authentic
classical Thai dance and music can sometimes be
seen, and the National Art Gallery where contemporary
and traditional Thai art is on show. Silpakorn
Fine Arts University , also near Tha Chang pier
is another place for this.
Further north still on Na Phra That road is Thammasat
University, Thailand's second most prestigious
after Chulalongkorn University (near Siam Square).
It's notable for the radical reputation of it's
students, and was founded in 1932 by Pridi Panomyang
who orchestrated the bloodless coup which overthrew
Thailand's absolute monarchy the same year. In
another infamous incident, hundreds were killed
or wounded here by a Thai military crackdown in
1976. Visitors are free to tour the grounds of
the university.
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